Judge a restaurant by its location and you’re sure to miss some of Las Vegas’ finest food. So, when my girlfriend suggested we check out Komex Fusion Express in the middle of a strip mall at 633 North Decatur Blvd. Suite H, I figured in might be worth a shot. I had never even heard of a Korean/Mexican fusion restaurant, so I knew I would be in for an eating adventure!
Komex is a small place with a few basic tables and plastic chairs. It appears to be mostly intended as a take-out restaurant, though they do offer full dine-in table service. We sat at one of their simple black tables, adorned with a paper Chinese Zodiac placemat, some napkins and silverware. The tiles on the floor are worn and dated, as is the wood panel siding on the walls. I’ve suddenly been transported to a Chinese takeout restaurant circa 1975. No, wait! It’s Las Vegas 2013 and I’m about to embark on an eating adventure, and nobody comes here for the decor.
Our drinks arrive: A can of Coke ($1), and a Mexican Coke in a real glass bottle made with cane sugar ($2). Along with them comes a free bowl of chips with a small cup of salsa and another of guacamole.
The chips are thick, crunchy, appear to be made from flour and have more in common with fried wontons than they do with corn chips, but they have a light flavor and hold up well to the salsa and guacamole. The salsa was fresh and had a nice mild flavor with a touch of clilanto. The guacamole was excellent! It had a buttery soft texture and tasted quite fresh. Very nice for a freebie!
We were just hungry enough for an afternoon snack, so we ordered the “Bulgogi Nachos” ($7.99) – hey I love bulgogi and I love nachos, so why not? We also ordered their “Fried Wontons” ($1.50). The wontons came out first, five crispy fried wontons stuffed with ground meat and served with duck sauce. They were mildly seasoned, served warm and went well with the accompanying sauce. They didn’t last long. Soon after the nachos arrived.
For those that don’t know, bulgogi refers to a sweet, tender Korean barbeque beef, and Komex makes some of the tastiest, most tender bulgogi I have ever had. They take that amazing meat and pile it high over a pile of chips (like those in the free appetizer), along with more of that fresh salsa, mozzarella cheese, korean hot sauce and jalepenos. The result? I have had many a plate of nachos in my life and these are, without a doubt, the best nachos of any kind I have ever had. Mind-blowing, lick the plate, kiss the cook, amazing. The sweetness of the meat and the cheese balances out the heat from the sauce and the peppers, and you can taste every flavor without ever being overcome by spice. Just perfect.
After we picked every last morsel from your plate of nachos the bill arrived, along with a fortune cookie for each of us and a fresh cut orange. Or bill came to $13.50. I wish every $13.50 I spent was this good.
Overall, the food was delicious, and cheap. I could not find a single item on their menu over $10. Komex isn’t a shiny new restaurant in a prime location, but that’s not what we’re here for anyways, right? We’re here for the food, for the eating adventure, and I assure you, this was one yummy adventure! This isn’t just someplace to consider “if you’re in the neighborhood.” It’s a place worthy of a special trip across town. You’ve gotta try it!